Eleven (July 10, 2004)Pittsburgh, PA Trying to dine out has become more of a challenge than it once used to be; that's what having twins and trying to find babysitters will do to your schedule. Nonetheless, even the most reluctant stars must eventually align, and so, nearly a month after we originally planned to visit, we made it to Eleven, the new restaurant occupying Valhalla's former space. Eleven is (surprise) the 11th restaurant from the Big Burrito group, which has already brought Pittsburgh Soba, Casbah, Kaya, Umi, and numerous Mad Mex restaurants. We're expecting big things, as Eleven hired away three of the best chefs in the city to work here. The decor of the restaurant is modern, with a mix of the metallic, sleek accents and funky fabrics that exemplify many of Big Burrito's other restaurants. We all noticed two things in particular; the glassed-in temperature controlled wine cellar on the balcony, overlooking the dining area, and the elaborate inlaid table woodwork, which looks like it stands no chance against the inevitable errant encounter with silverware. Time will tell. Amuse bouche - heirloom tomato puree with creme fraiche The amuse, perhaps three tablespoons worth served in small china bowls, is what you would imagine it to be; a burst of fresh tomato, with the creme fraiche moderating the acidity of the puree. Simple, with just a touch of salt to amplify the flavor. Shortly thereafter, a selection of breads arrives, including a Guinness-raisin, a French bread, and a Parmesan-walnut. I stick with the Guinness-raisin, a pleasantly moist and sweet bread with malty undertones. Rustic Country Terrine - pistachio, cornichons, dijon mustard The appetizer is arranged on a square plate. In the lower right corner, a cold, firm block of pork terrine, in the lower left, a smear of mustard. Slices of toasted baguette and a syrupy fig compote fill the remaining corners, with a few small slices of cornichon in the center of the plate. This is a classically French dish, with bold, strong flavors. I would have preferred a slightly softer and less salami-like terrine, in order to smear it on the baguette. The wine, available by the glass, is exactly the right complement, with slightly funky overtones reminiscent of a Chateauneuf du Pape. I should note that the by-the-glass menu had roughly a dozen whites and a dozen reds, with several interesting selections that should pair well with the cuisine. Veal and Lobster - veal medallions, butter-poached lobster, creamed leek Two oblong filets of lightly browned veal are each topped with a slash of lobster meat, resting on thin beds of leek and spinach, separated with two splashes of dark, deep brown reductions. The leeks provided a necessary herbal counterpoint to the rich sauces, and together with the tender mild veal meat, would have comprised a perfectly fine dish without the lobster. But the presence of the lobster elevates the dish to another category entirely. Seasoned with hints of vanilla, the lobster meat is tender, milky sweet, and succulent, and for me, is the highlight of the meal, and quite possibly a sufficient reason, by itself, for a trip to Eleven. The wine is a reasonable complement, with a bit more tannin than I might like for a Pinot Noir, but still aromatic and flavorful. Wild berries in a strawberry glaze This palate cleanser is simple, as was the amuse; here, a few mixed berries rest in a glaze of fresh strawberry syrup. Just enough to prepare for dessert, along with a shot of espresso to get my bitter fix for the evening. Lemon tart with strawberry sauce A dome of lemon custard, slightly lighter in consistency than a creme brulee, rests on a shortbread cookie, next to a small pile of wild berries, with a drizzle of the strawberry glaze and a sugared tuile resting on the dome. It is satisfying, if not inspired, and a pleasant way to end the meal, along with the Tokaji, which in this case tasted like a hypothetical hybrid of a Muscat and a Port, with the sweetness of the former and complexity and depth of the latter. Of course, I managed to get my forks into other people's plates, and a few highlights must be noted. A tuna carpaccio is sliced very thinly, and strikes a balance between the cold flesh and texture of the tuna with the acidity and tang of the vinaigrette drizzled over it. A massive hunk of seared bison meat is paired with a bone filled with salty marrow, pure buttery fatty goodness in a tube. It would be a crime to relinquish this to a dog, and a dream for the dog that gets it. A chanterelle and heirloom tomato plate shows what chanterelles can be, meaty yet soft texture with deeply satisfying flavor. One dessert merits special mention. A Maytag Blue Cheese tart, paired with vanilla-poached heirloom tomatoes and glazed almonds, is perhaps the oddest and most inventive flavor combination for dessert I've had in a while, although I still can't decide if I like it or not. Were it not for the strong vanilla flavor, this could easily migrate to the savory side of the menu. As it stands, it's a beguiling taste combination to be found nowhere else in the city, and would be worthy of some of the experimental dessert menus appearing in NYC restaurants. Service was reasonable by Pittsburgh standards, which in absolute terms means it was friendly but slow at times. Our server seemed unaware about the specifics of some menu items, which could be problematic given the sparse descriptions in the menu itself, and there was a fair delay between the appetizers and the main course. On the other hand, the kitchen is open to the dining room, and it was clear the cooks were getting slammed. So, I'm unwilling to be too harsh on this score, for a restaurant that has been open for only one month and is still finding its footing. Overall, my first impression is that it ranks alongside Baum Vivant, La Foret, and Bona Terra in terms of food quality and overall experience. Having another restaurant of this caliber in Pittsburgh should thrill local foodies. One last discordant note: foie gras is no longer on the menu at any of the Big Burrito restaurants, apparently due to complaints from other patrons. I'll save my rant on this subject for another time, and instead dream of lobster.
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